SIRACUSA

It is no coincidence that Siracusa is home to countless remnants of Greek and Roman culture. According to Cicero, this city was the largest Greek city and the most beautiful of all. The estimated population varies from 300,000 to almost 100,000,000.

THE SIRACUSA ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

The Roman theatre: The elliptical cavea of the amphitheatre measures 140 x 119 metres. It was built in the 3rd century because the rebuilt Greek theatre no longer met the requirements. The arena, in which gladiator games and animal fights took place, was equipped with two entrances and a marble balustrade. Under the balustrade, a vaulted corridor ran around the arena for the gladiators and animals.

The Ear of Dionysius, a cave carved into the rock, about 64 deep with a slender arch 20m high. Caravaggio gave it his name when he visited in 1608 and, according to legend, it served the tyrant Dionysus as a prison for his bitterest enemies. The excellent acoustics meant that their conversations could be heard from outside.

The Greek theatre of Syracuse was on a par with that of Athens and later Alexandria, being one of the largest theatres of Greek antiquity with a diameter of 138.6 metres. It was built around 470 BC under Hieron I and could seat 15,000 people. In Roman times, it was converted into an arena for gladiator fights in accordance with changed customs. The Greek theatre festival is held here every year from mid-May to the end of June.

The so-called Altar of Hieron II was the largest sacrificial altar in antiquity, measuring 22.8 metres wide by 177.6 metres long. It was probably once 15 metres high. It was dedicated to Zeus Eleutherios. Today, only the huge base hewn out of the rock remains. Hundreds of oxen were sometimes sacrificed here at the same time.

The Latomia: In the more than ten large quarries, limestones were extracted to build the ancient city. Among the largest quarries are the Latomia dei Cappuccini and the Latomia del Paradiso, which also served as prisons.

The walls of Dionysius I with the fort of Euryalos were the largest fortification of antiquity. From 401 BC and during the truce between Dionysius and Carthage in 405 BC, the 1800 hectare Epipolai plateau was secured against enemy occupation by the construction of the walls. The fort, which protected the far western tip of the plateau, was continually expanded in the following centuries until the city was captured by the Romans in 212 BC. The huge fort was the most versatile and sophisticated fortress of antiquity.

IN THE ORTIGIA

The Temple of Apollo: built around 570 BC, it is the oldest Doric peripteros in Sicily. Due to different uses in post-ancient times (Byzantine church, Arab mosque, Norman church and finally as Spanish barracks), only the foundations and a few columns and parts of the cella wall have survived.

The Cathedral, formerly the Temple of Athena: When we stand in the Cathedral, we are actually in the Temple of Athena, which was built as a victory temple after the victorious battle at Himera (480 BC). The old temple of Athena was converted into a Christian church in the 7th century. The massive Doric columns and capitals still form the support of the present church. They can be seen both on the exterior façade and inside.

PANTALLICA

The Sicilian tribe, which had settled in Sicily in pre-Hellenic times, left the coastal settlements such as that of Thapsos around 1300 BC and settled in the valley between the rivers Fiume Anapo in the south and Fiume Calcinara in the north. Not only natural caves already existing in the limestone slopes served as dwellings, but soon artificial caves were also cut into the mountain.

The Anaktoron or Prince’s Palace was probably built around 1100 BC.

Otherwise, what remains of the settlement are mainly the enormous necropolises with a total of over 5000 man-made cave tombs.

At the time of the Hellenic colonisation over Syracuse, the settlement was probably destroyed at the time of the founding of the colony of Akrai around 665 BC. The area remained populated under Greek rule, and further burial sites and grotto chapels were built in early Christian and Byzantine times. Pantalica gained a further boost as a retreat from the invading Arabs, who also gave the place the name Buntarigah (caves). After the valley was settled under the Normans, it was abandoned; only the archaeologist Paolo Orsi recognised its importance in his excavation work. In 2005 it was included in the World Heritage List.

PARCO ARCHEOLOGICO DI SEGESTA

Segesta was laid out by the Elymians around Mount Barbaro and in a short time, together with Erice and Entella, became the most prosperous trading centre of this ethnic group, which mixed with the Sicans of western Sicily. Segesta, famous for the beauty of the place and dominated by the Doric temple built below the town, dating back to the 5th century B.C., today also includes an extensive archaeological area, with finds dating back to ancient times and the Middle Ages. The Greek theatre is particularly impressive, while in front of the city walls, the temple district called Mango has recently been excavated, which was also enclosed by strong walls and where there must have been numerous sacred buildings, possibly related to the cult of the “Venus of Erice” (Astarte). No less important for historians are the archaeological areas at Monte Jato and Contessa Entellina (both in the province of Palermo), which have only recently been made accessible to the public and which demonstrate the Elymians’ links with both Greek and Punic cultures.

Agrigent

A visit to the archaeological park Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) in Agrigento is actually part of every trip to Sicily. The site covers 1,300 hectares, making it the largest of its kind in the world. In 1997, UNESCO declared the archaeological sites of Agrigento a World Heritage Site.The archaeological park consists of a series of Doric temples, some of them excellently preserved, built in the 5th century BC and reflecting the power and wealth of the Greek colony of Akragas at the time. The most important and best known is the Temple of Concordia, which, along with several others, was restored in 2007 to halt its deterioration. The park is divided into two halves by the “Via Passegiata Archeologica”. In the western part are mainly the temples of Olympian Zeus and the Dioscuri as well as the sanctuary of the chthonic deities, in the eastern part the temples of Hercules, Concordia and Hera.

The provincial capital of Agrigento, with a population of around 60,000, has, like all cities in Sicily, a number of sights, but would not be worth the long journey without the Valley of the Temples alone. The harbour town before Agrigento, Porto Empedocle, is the birthplace of Andrea Camilleri, the inventor of Commissario Montalbano. The latter solves his cases in the fictitious town of Vigata, which is modelled on Camilleri’s birthplace of Porto Empedocle. The provincial town of Montelusa corresponds to today’s Agrigento.

The Baroque period

The modern era in Sicily can also be described as the age of the Baroque.

The era of the Spanish Habsburgs was marked by the great earthquake of 1693, which destroyed considerable parts of the east coast. Architecturally, this was a stroke of luck, as the reconstruction programme in Catania, Siracusa, Noto, Modica, Ragusa and Sicli resulted in the most beautiful Baroque buildings.

Modica

Modica, with its 55,000 inhabitants, is located in the province of Ragusa, only 35 km from Noto, and is also a city worth visiting in the southeast.
Modica was built into a gorge and the houses seem to stick to the hillside. As in Noto, there are countless churches and palaces. Besides the many sights, Modica is also known for its excellent chocolate. Our favourite place to buy it is the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto. The historic centre extends into the upper town, where there is also a newer district with shopping streets.

Scicli

Scicli has 27,000 inhabitants and is also one of the five baroque towns in the southeast already mentioned. Scicli is not quite as famous as Noto, Modica and Ragusa, but it is just as worth seeing. Scicli and Ragusa are also known in Italy as the locations of the Commissario Montalbano series based on the novels by Andrea Camillieri.

Siracusa

was only declared a World Heritage Site in 2005, and for different reasons from the Baroque towns of Val di Noto, together with the Pantalica Gorge, namely because the sites and buildings that make up the Syracuse/Pantalica ensemble represent a unique collection of remarkable evidence of Mediterranean cultures over the centuries in the same place.

The old town on the island of Ortigia, which incidentally was also doomed to total decay, is now for us the most beautiful city by the sea that we know. Narrow streets, promenades by the sea, a great market and the magnificent cathedral on the impressive cathedral square make Ortigia unique.

Erice and the northwest of Sicily

The town of Erice, with about 30,000 inhabitants, is situated 15 km northeast of Trapani on Mount Erice at an altitude of 751 m above sea level. Only a few hundred inhabitants live in the old town on the plateau; the rest live in the districts at the foot of the mountain and to the north on the coast.
One feels strongly transported back to the Middle Ages in historic Erice, the atmosphere is truly unique, as is the view of the city of Trapani and the Egadi islands.

Marsala

is perhaps not quite as worth seeing as Trapani as a town, but at least a must for wine connoisseurs and lovers. You will, however, find a beautiful, renovated, pedestrian-friendly old town with some sights and, of course, the renowned Marsala producers. Although western Sicily is the most Arabic part of the island, Marsala cannot deny its English influence.

John Woodhouse established wine production around 1795 and other Englishmen such as Ingham and Whitaker followed him, so that by 1814 there were already 4 large British wineries. Unfortunately, Marsala lost a lot of its quality and it was only in the last 30 years that attempts were made to catch up with the big competitors from Spain and Portugal. Marsala also gained importance during the reunification of Italy, when the “Train of the Thousand” led by Giuseppe Garibaldi landed here on 11 May 1860 and began its victory march against the Bourbons.

Mazara del Vallo

Back to the southwest coast again. Mazzara is not particularly mentioned in most guidebooks, but it is a decidedly interesting town. With the largest fishing fleet in Italy, a maze-like North African kasbah in the centre of town and charming architecture, Mazara del Vallo offers a fascinating mix of culture, history and art. The most Arabic town in Sicily, it is also known for the ancient bronze statue of a satyr that was netted by a fisherman in the late 20th century and represented Italy at Expo 2005 in Japan.

Sciacca

The harbour town of Sciacca is located on the south coast of Sicily 50 km north of Agrigento. The small town in Italy is known for its thermal springs. The Romans already recognised the healing power of the hot steam baths and relaxed in the grottos of Monte San Calogero. Sciacca’s carnival, which attracts many visitors to the town at the end of February, is also famous. From the harbour, there is a magnificent view of the splendid backdrop of Sciacca’s colourful houses, which densely cover the hillside. Romantic alleyways, a few historic buildings and the Piazza Scandaliato with a great view over the sea define the image of a cosy Sicilian small town in the centre. Despite tourism, fishing remains the primary source of income for the inhabitants of the town. Sciacca has the second most important fishing port in Sicily after Mazara del Vallo. In the afternoon, the fishermen return with their catch. Then there is a lot of activity in the harbour. The fish can be bought directly from the boats. One of Sciacca’s most important celebrations is the religious festival in honour of the town’s patron saint, Madonna del Soccorso.

Licata

Licata is located 47 km southeast of Agrigento on the coast and has about 39,000 inhabitants. The area of the municipality was already settled in 280 BC. Under the Romans, a port was built in Licata which made the town an important trading centre and transhipment point for wheat. The town was sacked by the Turks in 1553, from which it recovered and expanded. Licata is one of the many pleasant, typically Sicilian small towns that are worth a visit. Licata and the surrounding area have some beautiful beaches for swimming. Worth seeing are the museum in the town hall, the chiesa madre, a church built in the 16th century, and the Castello Sant Angelo.

Castel di Tusa

From Cefalu it is a stone’s throw to Castel Tusa, a small friendly village by the sea with a beautiful castle and a famous, extraordinary hotel where each room has been designed by a different artist.

Patti

Patti is one of the most important towns in the region due to its beautiful location and historical importance. The town is the seat of a bishop and apart from the magnificent cathedral, a Roman villa and Tindari are also worth seeing.

Catania and the northeast

Catania city has about 350000 thousand inhabitants, with the surrounding municipalities Catania easily reaches 650 000 thousand people, making it the second largest city in Sicily and the largest non-regional capital in Italy. Catania is a very special city. On the one hand, it is hectic and gloomy, which is of course due to the black lava rock, on the other hand, Catania is lively with elegant cafes and culture and the most beautiful fish market in Europe.

Crime exists and we have been told by some customers before Scipis. A Scipo is a robbery where the car door is opened, the handbag is stolen and the perpetrator flees on a scooter.

However, we feel very comfortable and safe in Catania and cannot report anything negative. In any case, you should follow the usual advice. Do not leave any valuables visible in the car and close the car door from the inside in certain quarters of Catania.

Cultural towns in Central Sicily, Caltagirone

Caltagirone has about 40,000 inhabitants and is one of the late Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Caltagirone is known throughout Sicily and beyond for its ceramics and the Santa Maria del Monte Grand Staircase with its tiled steps.